I took 4 books with me but really only read one – Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast. I dipped into a book on Cuba. Hardly went online at all, which was a relief. Drank some very good cheap New Zealand wine. Ate well. Walked to glaciers and have many photos of mountains and lakes.

Thirty-three years ago when I was first there I did a motorcycle trip for 4 weeks. It should have been a week longer but as customs was on holiday over the Christmas – New Year period we could not get the bike off the wharf and had to rent a car for a week. The roads are even better now and must be amongst the best motorcycle roads in the world.The most memorable part of that trip was getting the bike and our tent knocked over at the camping ground in Mt Cook.

This time around we had a Toyota Yaris (with a limited amount of time I did not want to risk the weather on a bike) and stayed at the motel at Mt Cook where we found out that the huge window at the backpackers had been smashed in by a similar wind just a few months ago. The weather station was wrecked when the wind reached 180kmh!

If you are interested in my best of the year you can check out the Rhythms website (www.rhythms.com.au). I will expand upon it when I get a chance.

Australian Album Of The Year

Rumble Shake & Tumble – Wagons

International Album Of The Year 

Bad As Me – Tom Waits

Tour/Gig Of The Year (Australian Artist)

The Dingoes

Tour/Gig Of The Year (International Artist)

Derek Trucks & Susan Tedeschi @ Bluesfest

I just returned from The Gathering / Harvest festival over at Werribee, Melbourne.

I strongly urge anyone considering attending to give it a miss. This was by far the worst live music festival I have ever been to in my nearly 36 years.

Let me explain from the beginning:

The horror started at the entry gate, where a crew of Indian students dressed as security guards, where performing bag and person searches on the arriving public.

Despite written promised to contrary by the event organisers, the security promptly took and binned our food container into the rubbish bin. This is a daylong event, but I guess the ploy is to force people to buy from the overpriced vendors inside.

I tried to protest this, and asked to speak to the students (or security guards, as the case might be) supervisor, as I knew for a fact that food was meant to be allowed. I was told to go through and wait on the other side for five minutes, while he radios his “boss”.

That was a lie, as I waited for over 45 minutes and no one came to speak with me. Trouble is, because organisers refuse to give a pass-out, I could not return outside to speak to the “security” again. What a convenient arrangement for a dodgy operator!

A little pissed off, but hopeful to enjoy the rest of the day, I gave up waiting & ventured deeper in. The first, and the main feature of this event was “The Line”. The line to the bathroom, at its peak, stretched hundreds of meters long and spanned near the entire event ground. It was so long and slow moving that large proportion of people were defecating and urinating outside, often in the thin bushes in plain view of other revellers. I guess not ordering sufficient number of cheap plastic toilets saved the Event bosses a few dollars. How much for human dignity of not pooping in front of strangers in the open?

The next major problem was getting food. While lines where a little shorter, they were agonisingly slow moving. And because the kiosks were positioned along the main footpath, it created a situation where you could not get from stage A to stage B without getting stuck in a maze of different lines of people.

I saved the worst problem for last: the “alcohol scam”. Yes, I think it was a deliberate scam by the organisers. In order to buy alcohol you are offered to exchange your real money for “coupons”, and then take these coupons and exchange them for booze at one of the bars. There were so many places to buy these coupons that there was no lines at all, the organisers where very keen to take your cash. But afterwards, when you find a bar, you realise that the longest and slowest line of people is the bar! And now you have a decision to make – either you spend next few hours in this line to try and get rid of the coupons, or give up in order to catch a few bands. But if you give up, and don’t cash in your coupons, and you lose all your  money. It sure feels like a scam!

To conclude, some statistics:

Time spent waiting in lines: 4.5 hours++

Bands seen: 1

Songs heard: 3

Money spent: $252 + travel costs.

Would you pay 250 bucks to stand a line for 4 and a half hours?

Enjoy!

It was good to record a program from New Orleans but I had so many technical problems that I wondered if it was worth it.

This is where I dropped the blog bundle. Eventually, I got things sorted out and the following program, done in San Fran, was a lot easier.

My mate Al helped me get some studio time at WWOZ which assisted a lot. But then the computer program I was using shat itself and that took some time to sort out. Borrowed a microphone from producer John Porter. Or should I say borrowed it from the Grammy Award winning producer John Porter. What a great guy!

On the final night in Nawlins I met up with JP at d.b.a on Frenchman where we watched Jon Cleary do a solo piano gig (which he did not know about until I mentioned it). He told some great stories about the Stones and Jimi Hendrix (his wife used to go out with Jimi and Keef) but due to an intake of Coopers Sparkling (US$5 here!) I have forgotten them all.

I really liked Nawlins this time around. Maybe it was being away from the hectic Jazz Fest time. It felt more relaxed with less of an edge.

Of course, I loved Austin – the best city on the planet (but don’t tell anyone).

San Francisco was nice but mainly due to the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival which has the best line-up of any festival anywhere!

Then there is the fantastic Phoenix Hotel on Eddy Street. Get this: had a chat over dinner with Robyn Hitchcock, met Guy Clark at breakfast, chatted with AA Bondy and his band, spoke to Justin Townes Earle (who was in the room next to me). The service at the Phoenix is exceptional, fantastic staff (the best I have encountered anywhere), great rooms, great location (although some people find the Tenderloin a bit threatening), very good continental breakfast, heated pool. Brilliant!

Back in town I have just spent three weeks working. Under stress. I have the project. Plus somehow I got talked into doing a course to upgrade my teaching qualifications – as if I do not have enough already. I am not absolutely sure I need to do this but the powers that be think I do.

This week I finished a major assignment and had to deliver a 40-minute sample lesson. Talk about stress levels.But I handed up the assignment. How I ever passed university is beyond me.

I celebrated last night by going to see the new Martin Scorsese documentary – George Harrison: LIving In The Material World. Excellent. (More later).

Anyway, I am also helped out by the new Tom Waits album which is easily the album of the year – by a mile. Wilco is second, closely followed by Ry Cooder.

It was worth the near drenching to get to Adolfo’s on Frenchman Street for dinner. The pork chop was sensational with a sauce that had about 10,000 calories. I could barely walk afterwards despite the fact that I had not eaten all day.

Tuesday 20.09

I spent all day today doing interviews. First, Roger Lewis and Gregory Davis from the Dirty Dozen, then Allen Toussaint at his office on Rober E.Lee Blvd near the lake, and finally Jon Cleary at his house in Bywater, where he cooked up some red beans and rice. Cleary says New Orleans after Katrina was ‘like a little old lady who had been beaten up.’

This evening, my mate Al Laskey, whom I met at my first Jazz Fest in 1991, picked me up (on his pick up) and drove me back to Bywater where he lives the dream, working as a builder and presenting a program on WWOZ.

We dined at The Joint. Perhaps ‘dine’ is making this litle neighbourhood rib joint  sound a little more sophisticated than it really is. Half a rack of ribs and two beers for US$18. Like so many eateries in New Orleans looks are not only deceiving but irrelevant. The food is cheap and good, the atmosphere is ‘funky.’ We did plan on sitting outside and enjoying our beers but the mosquitos started to eat us alive so we retreated.

Al is organising for me to get some studio time at WWOZ to record my program.

Wednesday 21.09

The day was a write off. I spent all day editing interviews and trying to produce the program. An hour at OZ in the afternoon helped. Jorge there was really helpful and set me up in a little production studio which was perfect for what I needed. I continued back at the Maison Dupuy.

In May I bought an M-Box type thing which works okay but the microphone is picking up all the ambience in the room. I am recording some voice overs with a blanket over my head.

In the evening Al and I went to the Louisiana Bistrot on Dauphine. Great. I told Al we could enjoy a romantic dinner. He did not seem thrilled. It is definitely a step up in atmosphere from Adolfo’s and while the pork chop came in second, although the sauce was possibly a lot healthier.

Al tells me that when they have the annual fundraising appeal at WWOZ the programs after 10.00pm do not have to take part! He said he does not like to beg anyway. I was astonished that he can opt out. We talk about radio – a lot. Seems ‘community’ radio is the same everywhere.

Thursday 22.09

Breakfast in Bywater with John Porter, who relocated here from Los Angeles with his wife Linda last year. (You can read about her in Keith Richards’ book). He loaned me a Shure SM7B microphone which later worked perfectly for about half an hour until my software packed it in. I should have taken him up on his offer to record the program in his home studio. Next time. Eventually I get the program finished and sent off.

Jon Cleary at dba to tonight at 7.00pm. Cooper’s Sparkling for US$5! Cleary does two solo piano sets. In the break I chat with him and Porter who tells me some great stories about the Stones, Jimi Hendrix and others. He also talked about Robert Palmer and those great albums from the ’70s Sneakin’ Sally Through The Alley, Pressure Drop and Some People Can Do What They Like.

After the gig I go across to Adolfo’s only to be told by some exiting patrons that there was no food left. ‘Talk to the chef,’ said the waitress when I walked in, explaining that Adolfo’s wife had been in hospital and they had forgotten to order supplies for the day. That’s New Orleans. The young fill in chef says he has one rack of lamb left. That’ll do. The two Johns come in but are turned away. I have the last skerrick of food. It turns out to be the best rack of lamb I have ever had.

Friday 23.09

On the way out of town I drop into see John Porter and leave him a copy of the new Ry Cooder album. In return he gives me a copy of the never-released RL Burnside album, a tribute to Muddy Waters, that he produced and a live recording of Albert King and Clapton. ‘You can play these, can’t you?’ he says. Yes.

I stop off at Antler’s in Lafayette to have lunch with CC Adcock, who is hoping to get Lil’ band O’ Gold back to Australia next year sometime. CC has been coming to this place since he was 17. i think he must have shares in it.

He produced the Neko Case/Nick Cave version of ‘She’s Not There’ and has been in Europe for three months.

The drive back to Austin is unremarkable! I manage to stay awake the entire trip. Handy, as I am driving.

Drove into the Maison Dupuy in New Orleans at 6.15pm after just two stops of about 15 minutes each.

Have a fabulous room for US$89 – the Monday-Thursday rate. Best room I have ever had here. On the weekend it’s back to US$229 (a football game is on).

Walked to Adolfo’s on Frenchman and got a little damp when a thunderstorm hit (luckily had my ACL umbrella). The pork chop with the marsala sauce is the best I have ever had. There must have been 10,000 calories in there and it was a slow walk back to the hotel afterwards.

Got to ACL in time to see The Greencards who pretty much dazzled the audience with some really great playing. Kym and Carol are so humble and natural on stage that they are immediately endearing.

I have seen the future of country music and their name is Ryan Bingham and Hayes Carll. Bingham has an aura that indicates he will be around for a long, long time. Great songs, gritty voice, charismatic presence. Carll is an amusing storyteller with an edge to his humour.

The single highlight of the day for me was Joseph Arthur’s guitar solo on his song ‘Watch Our Shadows Run,’ (from his latest album The Graduation Ceremony). It was brilliant. When I spoke to him afterwards, Joseph said that the solo felt so good that didn’t want to stop playing it!

Arcade Fire closed the whole show in its usual spectacular fashion.

The gig for me tonight was Heybale at the Continental with Red Volkaert on guitar and Earl Poole Ball (Johnny Cash band) on keyboards. A great close to the weekend. Also, caught a bit of Mike Flanigin (on B3) and his trio in the Gallery upstairs from the Continental.

Oh yes, while I was watching the band I also had my laundry going back over the road at the Austin Motel. By midnight it was gigs, beers and clean clothes!

The weather continues to be almost perfect – overcast with just some light rain for an hour or so yesterday. Luckily, I was under cover. Later, it was almost cool – something I have not had to say during ACL before. I never thought I would think 90F was a cool day.

The highlight wouldhave had to have been Daniel Lanois’ Black Dub, with Trixie Whitley (Chris’s daughter) as lead singer.I think she is going to be a real star.

Also saw Phosphorescent, who closed with a great version of their song ‘Los Angeles,’ Abigail Washburn in a very eclectic set (‘How many of you play the banjo?’ she asked. Err, not many).

Gillian Welch and David Rawlings  who were late on stage due to a ‘scheduling conflict’ and proceeded to battle through the sound bleed from larger stages. ‘I wasn’t expecting the Martian landing right next to us,’ said Gillian, possibly referring to Skrillex. Then the Preservation Hall Jazz Band with the Del McCoury Band, the highlight of which was the version of Richard Thompson’s ’1952 Vincent Black Lightning.’

Tried to see Stevie Wonder (hold the jokes) but could not get close enough and the sound was drowned out by My Morning Jacket at the other end of the site. So I gave up, went to see them, managed to get a seat that someone had dragged out from the bar and even though I was probably 150 metres from the stage the sound was perfect. They were joined by the Preservation Hall Jazz Band – the mind boggles (though Jim James was on their benefit album). Talk about spectacular. And MMJ have to be the LOUDEST band I have ever heard at any festival anywhere.

The evening ended at Threadgill’s with the Traveling McCourys (the band minus Del) and sacred steel group The Lee Boys. As they said when they all got together for the final set it was ‘sacred grass.’

Oh yes, this morning I was listening to The Party Show on Triple R and Tarik, one of the show’s panel ops, phoned via Skype in from Austin and gave an ACL Fest report. I suspect that he might live here now and be employed by one of the large computer companies.

James Blake was outstanding with what they labelled as ‘dub step.’ Beautiful at times (though man wearing Lynyrd Skynyrd t-shirt said ‘this sucks’ as he walked away).

Gary Clark Jr put in a blistering set on the small BMI stage. Please get this young blues guy to a festival in Australia! Charles Bradley was fabulous and seemed to be channeling Otis. Mavis Staples was inspirational.

Others: Asleep At The Wheel, Secret Sisters, Damian Marley, Brandi Carlile, Ray Lamontagne, North Mississippi Allstars. (More later).

Dinner at El Meson on South Lamar. Flautas de carne as entree, then enchiladas as main. Great. US$21 (including a beer).

It is Friday morning at the Austin Motel. I am listening to the ABC radio post-match analysis after hawthorn’s victory over the Swans which I listened to online. Just got coffee and some milk (for museli) from Jo’s cafe.

The sky is overcast but the heavier clouds have moved on. They are forecasting 93F for the first day of ACL Fest.

Last night I saw Ray Wylie Hubbard at Threadgill’s and then Alejandro Escovedo and his band at the Continental Club. Both great gigs. Ray Wylie did ‘Up Against The Wall Redneck Mother’ and ‘Screw You, We’re From Texas,’ some new songs from a forthcoming album and told some great stories. Had a great interview with Ray before the gig and look forward to airing it soon. Dinner at Threadgill’s – chicken fried steak.

The highlight of Alejandro’s gig occurred when Jon Dee Graham joined him for some rough and ready – but great – versions of the Stones’ ‘Miss You’ and ‘Beast Of Burden.’

During the day I picked up a car at Enterprise – a Chevy Impala whichis way too big and which I am going to exchange for something smaller tomorrow. Went to Waterloo Records and The Book People. Only purchased one book (believe it or not). Shopping at Wholefoods and then writing for most of the day.