Homeward Bound

The total journey home – from the time we left Oxford to landing in Melbourne – took 33 1/2 hours. It felt like it but at least all the flights connected on time (though we just made the Sydney flight two minutes prior to boarding). The actual flight time via Chicago, LAX and Sydney was about 21 hours.

I now realise that getting cheap fares sometimes means you miss out on direct flights. Certainly this applies to frequent flyer miles: Tony was flying to and from Australia via Bangkok and Rob was flying via Norita, Japan.

The flight across the Pacific could have been horrendous when there was a faulty seat in front of me and the chap in it kept pushing it back onto my legs. Somehow Graham and I had missed out on getting Economy Plus seats – something that I thoroughly recommend (unless you are a dwarf). Luckily, one of the flight attendants found me a much better seat further up the cabin in a row of three with a spare seat in the middle. I slept most of the way, despite being next to Geeky Guy who spent a long time at his laptop, which took up the spare space. (I didn’t mind, I was so glad to be away from the other seat).

The fourteen hour Pacific flight is not helped by the ancient entertainment system (if you can call it that) on United – a couple of screens on bulkheads and some smaller screens hanging from the ceiling. Not that this mattered much: the movies were generally awful. Worst acting performance award goes to Hayden Christensen in Jumper, a silly science fiction flick that I thought might have promise. A cardboard cut-out could have done better. I am reminded that Christensen gave what I consider to be the worst ever performance by an actor in a major movie when he appeared in the last Star Wars film. The Golden Compass, Water Horse and 27 Dresses looked unappealing and I gave them a miss. At least we got to see the mildly amusing Jack Nicholson / Morgan Freeman vehicle The Bucket List on the LA flight.

Fortunately, I have developed the ability to sleep on long flights and managed to get about 8 hours, the remainder of the time reading Colin Escott’s Hank Williams biography, which I purchased in Nashville after seeing the display at the Country Music Hall of Fame.

Due to my new knee I have become accustomed to the full search and pat down. The security staff in Memphis turned out to be the most polite, caring and amusing of all – maybe they should give some classes to staff in other airports on attitude. Though, in fairness, most were good and probably cop a lot of abuse. The Sydney check seems totally redundant, as all you do is walk from the aircraft to the transfer lounge and many complained about this – not as loudly as the American man who wanted to know why his scissors were being confiscated. Hello! This comes second to the elderly Dutch man I encountered a few years back who tried to bring a Swiss Army knife on board!

It was nice to be back in Melbourne, although not much appears to have changed, which is probably a good thing. Graham was sped off by his loved ones to getting cracking on preparations for next week’s wedding of his daughter Renee. I caught some of Off The Record with Pat, Jeff and Billy as we headed home and look forward to playing all the interviews I have gathered and all the new music I have bought home. Tonight, Karen and I went to the Steak Bank in Ormond where I enjoyed the best steak I have had in over a month.

It felt strange not to be going to a gig, though there were a few great ones to choose from and the scene here is a lot more exciting than Lafayette or Memphis.

It was my fifteenth trip to New Orleans and my 14th Jazz Fest. Each Fest has its own character so it is difficult to choose a favourite but in recent years the line-up has been consistently good. Seeing Robert Plant and Alison Krauss, along with CC Adcock/Doyle Bramhall & The Lafayette Marquise (three times) made this one pretty special. Bettye Lavette. John Hammond. Al Green! The list goes on. (And that doesn’t include the gigs I missed).

The tour went off without any technical hitches, so I am glad that I spent all those hours on the phone in the months beforehand trying to get things organised right. It is amazing that, despite numerous emails, faxes and phone calls, there were still details that had to be fixed up. I even made sure I got to Clarksdale and Memphis early to check all the details before the group arrived, so that proved to be worthwhile. I think I was exhausted before the tour started!

Next year? I am already thinking about that.

I think we need to arrive in time for the Juke Joint Festival in Clarksdale. Guy from the Shack Up Inn says they are booked out for the Friday and Saturday but we could stay somewhere else for two nights and then come on over on Sunday. That sounds good. Maybe we could get an Aussie musician to play at the Shack Up as well.

After fishtailing down the interstate at 70mph with 9 passengers aboard the Econoline I have given up the plan of using 12-seater vans again. I think a big bus with a driver is in order, or smaller vans, even if it does cost a little more. Oh yes, I need to be more prescriptive on how much luggage people can bring!

Ace Atkins could not join us this year because he was ill when we were on the Delta but he is keen for next year, though his criterion that the tour should consist only of 21 – 35 year old females (because he once had an Australian girlfriend) could be hard to meet. Ace says that he can also put us on to some good ‘juke joints’ in Memphis

Stephen LaVere, who runs a blues museum in Greenwood, was away this year so we could meet up with him. We didn’t go to church in New Orleans on a Sunday, mostly because I was too tired or busy to get up early. That is something we should do. I was impressed with Nashville and wouldn’t mind including a couple of nights there in the itinerary.

Lots of ideas and a few more months to plan it. So it is all happening!

Somehow I have managed to keep this blog up to date and also had a great time. At the start of the trip I also had to finish some articles and reviews for Rhythms and managed to do that too. At least it is not as hectic as when I was actually editing the print version and would be up at 7.00am every day, writing and emailing. Thank goodness Marty Jones is now doing that. A couple of times when I was staying at Marie-Francoise’s in Ursulines Street I would have to string a 100 foot phone line along the balcony to the foyer so that I could get online!

I hope that it is has given you a taste of what I got up to during the month away and what happened on the tour. Of course, you don’t need to join a tour group to do all this you just have to have the will. Some say see Venice and die. I always say that if you are a music fan you should go to Jazz Fest at least once in your life. These days I don’t even think about it anymore because I know I am going each year.

One of the best things about this trip for me has been meeting up with new friends like Ace, CC Adcock and Anne McCue  or meeting up again with old friends like Doyle Bramhall. Talking to people such as Cosimo Mattassa and Jim Dickinson was a delight and a privilege. Seeing how excited people on the tour or those like Woody or Michael got at their first Fest was also a thrill. It is those things, as much as the music, that makes the trip so worthwhile

Nashville Skyline

On Monday we left New Orleans at 10.00am in a bright yellow Chevy Cobalt rental car – which we call the Yellow Peril – and reached Nashville eight and a half hours later. The countryside changed from the flat swamplands and bayous to the undulating, forested hills as we passed through Mississippi and Alabama. Finding our motel, the Best Western on Union Street, was easy and, after we checked in, we immediately walked down three blocks to Broadway where we took a stroll past all the honky tonks and dropped in to Ernest Tubbs’ record store.

Anne McCue, who now lives in Nashville, suggested we go to the Station Inn to see the Time Jumpers, a terrific Western swing band featuring one of the world’s best pedal steel players, Paul Franklin, who I spoke to and might interview if he has time. There were quite a few celebrities in the audience including Tommy Allsop (the guitarist whose seat Buddy Holly took on the fateful plane), Lee Ann Womack and Billy Dean, who sang a couple of songs, including ‘Your Cheatin’ Heart.’

From New Orleans funk to Western swing – what a contrast in 24 hours. It is almost as if Nawlins is another time already.

Jazz Fest Thursday May 1, 2008

This morning provided another great thrill of my life when I got to interview legendary producer Cosimo Matassa at the grocery store he runs with his sons. There is a fantastic new 4CD compilation out titled The Cosimo Mattassa Story (Proper Records) and it formed the basis of the interview. At 82 years of age Cosimo is still as sprightly and as perceptive as ever and is insights were tremendous. Of course, it is difficult to interview someone with such a massive history about everything they have done but we did manage to cover Dave Bartholomew and Fats Domino, Little Richard, Roy Brown, Allen Toussaint and other aspects of Cos’s history. I will air the interview as soon as I can after I get back. What a fantastic man. I am thinking of asking him to adopt me.

Then it was off to Jazz Fest where I saw John Lee and The Heralds Of Christ and The Mighty Chariots Of Fire in the Gospel Tent. I’m saved!

I then got a second row spot in the Blues Tent for Bettye Lavette who was just sensational. Blending old and new songs she was a bundle of energy and had the crowd entranced. Bettye closed the show with a Renee Geyer song ‘Heaven (The Closest I’ll Get)’ which she recorded for her Handy Award winning album A Woman Like Me. Absolutely great.

An even greater thrill was interviewing Bettye after the show. When is she coming to Australia? ‘When someone asks me!’ Please someone – ask.

The evening was capped off for Graham and I at a gig we never expected to go to – Jimmy Buffett at Margaritaville. Thanks to a well-connected friend we managed to get some passes and enjoyed the drinks and food and a very entertaining show (featuring Sonny Landreth on guitar).

Jeff Jenkins joked the other month that when I saw the name Jimmy Buffett on the menu I thought I was going to get food at a buffet. Well, Jeff, I did – and saw Jimmy to boot. Having enjoyed his hospitality I cannot speak highly enough of him!

Tomorrow – Stevie Wonder, Richard Thompson and John Butler.

Cajun Country Day 3 & The Ponderosa Stomp – Wednesday April 30

This morning we left for Avery Island and visited the Tabasco Factory and its extensive gardens. If youhave never been here before it is really worth a visit. I sampled the new Tabasco soda pop, which I don’t think is going to catch on, and the Tabasco ice cream which is similarly unusual. I did buy some of their mustards which were exceptionally tasty.

We then went to Erath (a town whose name always strikes me as being misspelled) to see DL Menard and his family and friends. DL is known as the cajun Hank Williams and has the most amazing accent you have ever heard but not understood. I think he said he was glad to see us but he might equally have been saying ‘Bugger off.’ They always lay on a nice spread and I partook of the spicy meatballs, this year without helen telling me off. I had two serves.

The music was provided by L’Angelou – a group consisting of two sisters and a brother plus their mother (who has another five kids). DL also did a short set which was compelling as he told of his experience in seeing Hank Williams who gave him some really good advice which I wish I could have understood. DL did say he was convinced that Hank died of an overdose of medication due to his bad back.

After this we headed straight back to New Orleans where we arrived at 6.00pm (just as Nancy had promised)  – in time to get changed and head to the House Of Blues for The Ponderosa Stomp.

First act we caught was the Hi Rhythm Section with Percy Wiggins doing some of the Al Green vocals. A killer band. Then they backed Syl Johnson, the originator of ‘Take Me To The River.’ Here is a contender for an Australian tour. I reckon if Eddie Bo and Eddie Floyd can tour then Syl would also be a sensation.

Final act of the night for me was Ronnie Spector – who I have to say is one of the highlights so far and one of the best things I have ever seen at The Stomp. I cannot believe that Ronnie is 64 because she still sounds terrific and, of course, looks great. (I think there is a lot to be said for older women!) The 12-piece band were superb and gave Ronnie the platform for her vocals, which did not always hit the high notes but still sounded great. When she did ‘Be My Baby’ everyone sang along. Talk about a feel good gig. All the girls – Nerida, Elsie and Elsie – were buzzing afterwards.

Most stayed for Roky Erickson but, having seen him twice in recent years, I opted for a relativey early night.

After Dl

Cajun Country Day One – Monday April 28

This morning we left New Orleans at 9.10am headed for Cajun Country. I just had time to drop off my laundry which I’ll pick up when I return (mundane stuff but important after you get wet at Jazz Fest). My shoes appear to be beyond redemption and despite the fact that I applied the hairdryer it is starting to smell as if several rats have died in them. I may have to throw them away.

We reached Lafayette at around 11.45am and decamped at Charlie G’s restaurant to enjoy a meal prepared by chef Patrick Mould (unfortunate name for a cook). We started with coconut battered shrimp with orange marmalade dipping sauce and then moved on to smoked duck and andouille gumbo (with the best roux I have ever tasted). This was followed by pear, gorgonzola, sweet & spicy pecan salad with cane syrup herb vinaigratte which was followed by the best crabcake I have ever had (somehow Pat managed to get them crisp on the outside while the mixture of crab meat and bechemal sauce remained smooth). Dessert consisted of white chocolate bread pudding with white chocolate Kahlua sauce.

I have to say that this was one of the most delicious lunches I have ever enjoyed and, while last year’s outdoor setting at Jefferson Island was good the quality of the food here was better. Patrick excelled himself.

By the time we were finished three hours had passed and we were ready for a siesta. Less then an hour later we were at the Days Inn in Eunice where most enjoyed a brief nap. I walked up the highway to the Family Dollar store where I purchased a pair of athletic shoes for $9.99 plus tax.

At 5.30pm we headed for the Winn Dixie store where we purchased our drinking requirements for the evening and then made the short trip to Geno Delafose’s ranch where we had a BBQ and enjoyed the music from Geno and his band. Some of us danced!

Graceland Revisited

This morning we visited Graceland, once home to Elvis Presley and now a Mecca for his fans, who flock in their hundreds of thousands each year to visit the relatively modest (by rock standards) mansion. The guide who introduced us to the tour scoffed at reports that San Simeon, William Randolph Hearst’s castle in Calfornia, has more visitors. “Not so,” he said “Graceland is the most visited house in America.”

Of course, Elvis has not lived here for almost thirty years so it was somewhat of a shock – and a wonderful one at that – to see him on one of his rare visits to his former domicile. He now lives with Priscilla out of town on a 100-acre spread nearer to Tupelo, Mississippi, his birthplace.

Always known for his sense of humour, Elvis – or Mr Presley, as we called him – rocked up on a pink ride-on mower with a couple of his ageing buddies. “Just here to check on how everything is going,” he said as he parked the vehicle and gingerly alighted. At 73, he is not quite as spriteley as he once was but he still looks in terrific shape the three years since his final live show and eight years since his farewell world tour (which made him the highest grossing live act in history). The years have treated him well.

You can imagine the frenzy that was created amongst the group of tourists lucky enough to see him but he signed autographs, answered questions and even had his picture taken with our tour group. (Unfortunately, mine did not come out). It was an incredible and unexpected bonus. I have to say that I was completely dumbstruck in the presence of the man they call The King. But given his last three decades they should surely call him The Emperor or The God!

It is amazing to think that just over thirty years ago, on August 16, 1977, Colonel Tom Parker was killed in a tragic shooting accident at Graceland’s shooting range while Elvis and his friends looked on in horror. They were so shocked that it took them more than half an hour to call paramedics by which stage the Colonel was a whiter shade of pale. A local doctor quickly issued a death certificate, the police said there were ‘absolutely no suspicious circumstances’ and said they would arrest anyone who claimed otherwise and the local mayor, said, ‘Oh well, these things happen.’ Parker was buried next to the stables the following morning, a small plain brick marking his grave. “The Colonel would have wanted it that way,” said Elvis, who unfortunately could not make the funeral service, which was attended by some colourful Italian identities with whom the Colonel would often play cards. It is reported that they each received a small brown envelope and were never seen in Memphis again.

That single, horrible tragedy was to be the turning point of Elvis Presley’s career. Blown out to 330lbs, depressed about his career and the breakdown of his marriage, Elvis was said to have been in the toilet when the gun went off and a stray bullet hit ricocheted off a wall and hit Parker right between the eyes. On receiving the news, Elvis immediately had a road to Damascus revelation.

A few months later, a trim, happy Elvis Presley was reunited with Priscilla, moved to his new ranch in Mississippi and re-ignited a recording and touring career that had been on the verge of collapse.

In 1978, the Elvis Gidday From Australia special beamed from the Sydney Opera House into over a billion homes around the world. It was to be the first date on a remarkable comeback tour that enabled him to perform in countries outside America for the first time. The 100-date five-continent tour set a new benchmark in box office receipts. The resultant double-live album stayed at Number 1 on the charts for a massive twenty-three weeks.

Now under the management of Jon Landau, who was also in charge of Bruce Springsteen’s career, Elvis somehow managed to ride out the punk revolution completely unscathed, having both The Sex Pistols and The Clash open arena shows for him on his 1980 US tour.

During the ’80s Elvis recorded a series of acclaimed studio albums that re-established his reputation as one of the world’s greatest singers. Elvis Meets Aretha, featuring duets by both legends, topped the charts for four months and went on to sell 10 million copies. His 1985 album, Elvis At 50 (produced by Don Was), sold over 5 million units.

While Elvis had won only three Grammys up until 1977 – all for gospel albums – his legend grew over the next 30 years, picking up another 36 awards for rock, country (contemporary and traditional), gospel, blues and spoken word albums, overtaking George Solti as history’s greatest Grammy winner. Only polka player  Jimmy Sturr was to approach this number n the modern era. It was to become his most productive period ever.

Presley also successfully went back to acting in movies and finally won that elusive Oscar in 1984 for his role in Tender Mercies (just pipping Robert Duvall, who was in the same film). He won again in 1987 for Wall Street (as an unscrupulous share trader) and his third Oscar came in 2004, playing the grandfather in Mystic River.

By 1990, Elvis was ready to change direction and enlisted the help of Daniel Lanois to record the landmark album Elvis In New Orleans. The album featured his usual crew of musicians, including James Burton and Jerry Scheff, but added the Meters and an array of New Orleans legends such as Dr John and Allen Toussaint. It was not to be Presley’s highest selling album (netting only 3 million sales) but it was to be his most highly-praised album since the late 60s. Rolling Stone called it ‘the greatest masterpiece of the past 20 years.’

In 1995, Elvis released the follow-up album Elvis In New Orleans II, featuring guest CC Adcock who Elvis saw as his protege. He set off on a world tour to celebrate his 60th birthday. (Coincidentally, Elvis Costello released Elvis In New Orleans Too a year later). This was to outgross his previous tour by almost 25% but at the end Elvis announced that he would do one more tour when he was 65 and then retire permanently from touring. “I feel like there are plenty of young fellas and gals out there who can take my place,” he said, in announcing his decision.

In 1999 Elvis worked with T Bone Burnett on the soundtrack of O Brother! Where Art Thou (which won him a Grammy) and made a cameo appearance int he film. He liked Burnett so much that he then recorded another studio album with Burnett, who teamed Elvis with Alison Krauss for the brilliant and award-winning Raising Dust.

Elvis Farewell, his final tour in 2000, was a blockbuster to beat all comers. The year long journey was to make him the single biggest grossing concert act in history. It was so popular that acts such as The Rolling Stones, U2 and Bruce Spsingsteen decided to take a year off so as not to compete. Always genereous, however, Elvis enlisted them to play various supports during the tour. The double album, film and DVD were also to set records.

In 2001, keeping his promise, Elvis retired to Mississippi with Priscilla. Lisa Marie married CC Adcock soon afterwards in a simple ceremony.

Elvis then recorded two fabulous albums with Joe Henry, who encouraged some of rock’s great writers, including Dan Penn and Tom Waits, to pen a batch of new songs for The King.

Elvis has made only three concert appearances since 2000. He headlined the Hurricane Katrina Benefit in late 2005 at Madison Square Gardens in New York. The Elvis Presley Foundation has since raised over $200 milion dollars to help New Orleans residents. In 2007 he sang with Willie Nelson in front of a million people at an anti-Iraq war protest in Washington DC. It is said that Elvis’s influence was what led to the impeachment and subsequent imprisonment of George W Bush for ‘war crimes’ later that year.

In 2008 Elvis sang at a Barack Obama benefit concert and helped raise enough money to get Obama into the White House. Everyone recalls where they were when Obama made his famous ‘I have been to Graceand’ speech.

President Obama invited Elvis to sing at his inauguration in January 2009 and Elvis can be seen on the dais near the Obama family at the swearing in. Elvis has rejected reports that he was asked by Obama to run as Vice President, saying ‘I’m just a truck driver from Tupelo, Mississippi.’

It gladdened all of our hearts today seeing Elvis – the icon, the legend, the national treasure – living so happily in his 70s. Long live The King!

Clarksdale, MS

On Friday we looked around Oxford in the morning, bought some books at the excellent Square Books and then drove over to Clarksdale to drop Tony off. He will be staying there five nights in all – three nights at the Riverside Inn, the site of the hospital where Bessie Smith died. Graham and I were unable to find a room there so have decided to stay in Oxford before going to Memphis to meet the group.

The Juke Joint Festival is on in Clarksdale this weekend and we went to a venue called Sarah’s Kitchen to see T Model Ford launch his new CD, It’s Jack Daniel’s Time. Unfortunately, he was the only one with Jack Daniels. Everyone else had to drink Bud Light or Heineken or soft drink. They missed a golden marketing opportunity there! Interestingly, almost everyone in the venue was white and middle-aged. Apart from T Model and his band members there were only five other African-Americans there – and three of those were working behind the bar! I wonder what that says about the state of the blues.

The drive back across the Delta at night was to the sounds of the Hill Country Revue CD and the Stones’ Shine A Light with ‘Sympathy For The Devil’ played loud. not that we wanted to meet the devil at the crossroads – or anywhere else.

Today we drive to Memphis to meet the rest of the tour group who are arriving from Australia.

A Breaux Bridge Too Far!

Just a few days to go before you all head off. Though I know a few will be leaving today. I look forward to seeing you all in Memphis on Saturday.

Greetings from the public library in Breaux Bridge where we are staying for two nights in….yes, a cabin by the bayou. It’s not quite as idyllic as it seems as the main road runs nearby, the large semis occasionally shattering the chirp of the cicadas or crickets or whatever they are. Feral cats roam around seraching for food.

But we are on Bayou Teche and we did get to hear some cajun music from Jay Cormier last night at Mulate’s, which is just a few minutes walk away. If you survive the stroll along the highway, given the absence a footpath, it is a pleasant way to spend the night.

There is no internet, WiFi or even a phone, at the cabins which is why I am here, finishing off some work while Tony and Graham take a boat along the bayou or go to Eunice.

Yesterday afternoon we had lunch with CC Adcock at Antler’s restaurant in Lafayette. Apparently, he lives ‘just 52 steps away’ from it and eats there most days. We had the lunch special of stuffed pork chop. CC noted that I went through it ‘like Sherman went through Georgia.’ I had not had breakfast so might have been a bit peckish!

Lafayette’s CBD seems to have an abundance of bars, lawyers and denists and not much else. The other night when we went for a stroll we were very much alone on quiet streets. As we passed the large court house, Graham asked, ‘I wonder if they have much crime here?’ ‘We’ll soon find out!’ was my reply.

CC put us in touch with Mark Miller – son of famous producer JD Miller – in Crowley. So we drove over and visited his Modern Music store and he showed us the studio there and one at an adjacent building. I have to say they are humble constructions but I guess you don’t need flashy equipment to produce great music. There is a lot of old recording equipment from the 60s, old valve models. I don’t think they have done much recording there lately. Mark also sells a lot of old 45’s and LPs and has a large room full of them. You can find the catalogue at his website – www.mterecords.com.

We then visited the museum in City Hall on the corner. It was once the old Ford factory where Model Ts that had been shipped from Detroit were resassembled. Henry Ford had the brillaint idea that if you took the fenders and wheels off the cars you could fit four per train carriage instead of two.

Purchased by JD Miller in the 60s it became home to his Mastertrak Studios and famous for its many recordings, including Slim Harpo’s for Excello.

The city managed to rip out the old studio and has replaced it with something that looks nothing like the original. Reminds one ofthe Stax experience. The highlight was actually a video about the studio, JD and the artists who recorded there.

On Sunday we stayed at the Blue Moon in Lafayette which in is in a good location but is more of a hostel than a guest house. It was the first time for many years that I have shared a room with three other blokes. The bathrooms were a short walk away. Even at Marie-Francoise’ house in New Orleans we had separate rooms. However, it was cheap, costing us just US$24 a night each.

The Blue Moon is also a venue and we had just missed CW Stoneking – by five nights. The owner was impressed that CW was travelling with an entourage – wife, child and tour manager. When asked how he went over with the audience, she said that most people thought he came from Mississippi!

The other day when Tony told a chap he was from Australia he got the reply, ‘I really like you people. I’d like to go live there. I admire what the Governor of California has been doing.’ Tony didn’t have the heart to tell him that Arnold is Austrian !

Tomorrow we pick up two mini-buses in Baton Rouge and head up to Clarksdale, Oxford and then meet you in Memphis.

French Quarter Festival

Just got back from The House Of Blues having seen Shelby Lynne in a stunning performance.

Note: These days The House of Blues wants to see your ID before they allow you in. We had to walk back to out hotel, luckily not far away, to fetch our drivers’ licences. I am told that this is now their policy though the security person said that it had been in place for two years. Not so, I pointed out. Apparently, this is because they want to be able to identify you if you fall over or have an accident. ‘I know who he is,’ said Graham. Not good enough. We might just fall over unconscious simultaneously.

I cannot believe they are going to do this for every gig. It will take ages to get in because they also have to scan you. So far no body searches. The club is nicknamed The House Of Rules.

So don’t say you haven’t been warned. The weird thing is that they take all these precautions and then sell beer in bottles!! Hello? Am I more likely to fall over or be hit on the head with a beer bottle by some maniac?

HINT: Bring some ID to The House of Blues.

The first half hour of Shelby’s set was devoted entirely to her new album Just A Little Lovin’ – a tribute to Dusty Springfield. Because we got so close I feel like we are on a first name basis.

The fact that there were fewer than 100 people there and we could get within three metres of the stage was a distinct bonus but it doesn’t say a lot about Lynne’s career. Lucky she had members of her family there to boost the numbers. She certainly didn’t mind getting up close and personal and during the first part of the set held hands with several audience members on the particularly emotional songs such as ‘You Don’t Have To Say You Love Me’ and ‘Anyone Who Had A Heart.’ The fact that she only held hands with women shattered the illusion that she was looking at me while she was singing some of those romantic songs! She also sat on the edge of the stage for one song then laughed because it happened to be where someone had spilled beer and she was left with two rather prominent patches on her jeans.

Graham and I both agree that she has been studying old Elvis (Presley) movies because she has the moves down to a tee. But what a great voice and stage presence! At least every trip here you see something special that makes you glad you decided to come over – and it’s still 11 days to Jazz Fest!

I was trying to work out why Lynne is not more successful and can only put it down to the fact that she won’t play the record company game anymore: record some catchy generic country songs and shake lots of ‘booty’ (as they say here). I am sure that she once did the whole major label thing but not anymore. Her performance is personal but understated, tasteful and charismatic. I noticed she was playing the guitar given to her by Tony Joe White (with his initials carved into it). That says it all. Hopefully, Lynne might get some of her own songs covered and enjoy some well deserved royalties. I remember the first time I heard her music in a now defunct music store here called The Magic Bus and after hearing her sing ‘I’m Leaving’ thought she must have been African-American. (She’s not, being Allison Moorer’s sister). One of the reasons I still keep doing a radio show is because I still keep finding musicians that I want to tell people about.

Saturday

Last night we saw local jazz legend and elder statesman Ellis Marsalis at Snug Harbor over on Frenchman Street. We were in the bar having a drink when they announced there were spare tickets for $20 each. A good deal. So far the best piece of graffiti I have seen was in the rest room here: Where is Lee Harvey Oswald when you need him?

When we got back to the hotel I tried to listen to the AFL on my laptop but the site stll refuses to work. Streaming the ABC works perfectly otherwise. No other footy station would work off the site either. Why are we held hostage by the AFL? Why is the ABC letting itself be hostage? Is there any propeller head out there who can help me? (Yes, I have all the software).

Friday

Friday night Graham and I ventured out to see Anders Osborne at the Rock ‘n’ Bowl – a bowling alley and venue, for those unfamiliar with this unusual spot. We tried several taxis before we found a driver who knew where the venue was located.

The first driver, possibly not a native of New Orleans, asked ‘Do you know where you are going?’ I quickly replied as we got out, ‘We were kind of hoping that you would know!’

HINT: Before you get into a cab ask the driver if they know the location of the club you want.

Anders and band played some jazz-rock. Or it could have been rock-jazz. It definitely was not fusion.

Apart from Anders on guitar there was Kirk Joseph from the Dirty Dozen on sousaphone (a criminally neglected instrument) along with tenor and alto sax and drums. The set opened with an epic version of ‘Stoned, Drunk and Naked’ and in 45 minutes he managed just three songs. The second set featured a guest conga player and a fifteen minute version of CSNY’s ‘Ohio.’

A bizarre highlight occurred when the owner, who seemed either slightly eccentric or drunk, got up at the end of the second set and sang a truly awful version of ‘The Star Spangled Banner’, asking us all to put our hands on our hearts. He dedicated it to ‘all those who make this possible’ – and probably wanted to dedicate it to the troops, which I recall he might have done once before when I was there. It was scary.

Worse was to come when he then tried to sing ‘Jesus On The Mainline’ and started to preach, before having second thoughts and apparently losing concentration. Anders and the band took over and finished the song in a much more appealing manner.

Because it did not finish until after 1.30am we had to call a cab from the Bowl but staff were happy to oblige. The bonus was that we got to share it with some raucous drunk (white) American and his partner and friends but we got some good jokes out of it (none of which I can repeat here).

They had laid out on the bar some free food left over from a party but, unfortunately, we were unable to avail ourselves of many tasty portions. In the afternoon we had eaten a late lunch at Mother’s on Poydras after a prolonged drive around the Garden District. It was the only meal we ate yesterday but all that we needed.

I had forgotten that one must line up at this restaurant, so it took half an hour to place our order. Generously, I let Tony and Graham line up while I looked after our table. They each had the seafood platter while I ordered the baked ham po’ boy (a large stuffed bread roll). Stuffed being the operative word.

I am pleased to report that New Orleans’ recovery is noticeable. As you fly in you can see great swathes of the Lower Ninth Ward that have been cleared and a drive around confirms that rebuilding is quickening as residents start to return. It will be interesting to see if they can get insurance. Some will never come back, having received cheques to relocate.

Walking around town you can see the signs everywhere. The streets are cleaner and busier with more businesses open. The streetcar, one of the main tourist attractions, is back on St Charles Avenue. The Garden District, through which the streetcar glides, resembles its former glory, as it recovers from the storm wind damage, rather than flooding.

There are certainly more visitors here and the restaurant queues are reminiscent of pre-Hurricane days. Taxi drivers are starting to complain about the traffic. There are plenty of gigs to go to at night and even gaudy Bourbon Street is buzzing again. For a city that relies on tourism, that is a great thing in itself.

Tomorrow, we head off to Lafayette where we hope to catch up with CC Adcock and enjoy some music (and possibly food).

Greetings From L.A.

The trip over was not too bad at all. However, I have to report that the United Airlines entertainment system leaves something to be desired. You will not get the individual screen in the seatback facing you, instead you will have to look up or across.

I didn’t have the earphones on but I just know that the Alvin & The Chipmunks movie has to be one of the worst ever made. Other choices included Water Horse and The Golden Compass.

I suggest you bring a good book and an iPod.

We managed to get seats 32 K&J and while I don’t think these are Economy Plus they were at a bulkhead which meant a little more space with no-one in front of us. .

Remember to ask for an Economy Plus seat (you may get lucky). Failing that ask for an Exit row. If you are a Mileage Plus Elite or Premier member you most likely will be first in line for Economy Plus.

You can ring United at 131 777 and check before you fly. Maybe do it soon. If you have your Record Locator or booking reference (on your e-ticket) they can probably allocate seats now.

Down the back of the 747 there is a section where there are only two seats together on either side of the plane. It’s noisier back there but you may prefer this. Plus you get to see any lots of vacant seats and grab them before anyone else. (Though Americans are phenomenally quick at this).

Make sure you board as soon as you can, according to your allocated number, which you will see on the ticket. Otherwise, you will find the overhead lockers taken up with the huge bags that many Americans carry with them. This is more crucial on the domestic US flights to Chicago and on to Memphis.

I notice that many people cheat on this and board before their section is called. This seems to be a highly un-Australian thing to do but, as they say, when in Rome…..

If you need a vegetarian meal let them know now too. Maybe the vegie meals are better!

Our trip through immigration and customs was one of the fastest ever, with 12 gates operating. That’s good news. It puzzles me why all the Immigration officials, who merely look at your passport and visa forms and stamp them, have to carry guns. Their pledge, posted prominently, claims that they will greet you warmly.

Of course, you will probably not be subjected to the constant body search, as I was with my new cobalt knee everytime I go through a scanner. I am getting to like the feeling of being frisked and patted down!

After consulting Nerida the other night, I am adding a few more hints:

1. Bring a mall zip lock bag to put in your toothbrush, toothpaste and any other accoutrements you need on the plane. Remember, you can only bring a small tube of toothpaste on board. If you have a large tube you will have to throw it away (or eat it).

2. Girls. Nerida says that it is always good to bring a spare pair of undies in case of delays or (worse) getting unexpectedly stuck overnight.

Men, of course, will ignore this handy suggestion and other hints about hygiene may not have the same import for us.

3. Wet Ones are always good for cleanliness and convenience. Good for the Fairgrounds at Jazz Fest too, especially if you are ever forced to use one of the Portaloos.

4. On the plane you might like to also bring a small hand towel (beats washing with paper towels).

5. I bring a t-shirt with me and change into this for most of the flight. This is because it is more comfy and also because I usually end up dropping food on my shirt (not a good look).

6. The weather will most likely be hot and humid so you will not need a jumper, sweater or other heavy top unless you are travelling elsewhere in the USA. You can bring a light jacket to wear at night.

7. Some waterproof gear is good. A poncho if you can get one is handy but there are plenty of stores in New Orleans which have them cheap so no need to panic there.

8. Nerida suggests wearing Crocs to the festival because of their comfortable and waterproof nature. I suggest you have a comfy pair of shoes that you are prepared to throw away if we are caught in a tropical downpour.

Until next blog,

Cheers,

Brian