Off The Record

Entries from April 2008

Cajun Country Day One – Monday April 28

April 29, 2008 · Leave a Comment

This morning we left New Orleans at 9.10am headed for Cajun Country. I just had time to drop off my laundry which I’ll pick up when I return (mundane stuff but important after you get wet at Jazz Fest). My shoes appear to be beyond redemption and despite the fact that I applied the hairdryer it is starting to smell as if several rats have died in them. I may have to throw them away.

We reached Lafayette at around 11.45am and decamped at Charlie G’s restaurant to enjoy a meal prepared by chef Patrick Mould (unfortunate name for a cook). We started with coconut battered shrimp with orange marmalade dipping sauce and then moved on to smoked duck and andouille gumbo (with the best roux I have ever tasted). This was followed by pear, gorgonzola, sweet & spicy pecan salad with cane syrup herb vinaigratte which was followed by the best crabcake I have ever had (somehow Pat managed to get them crisp on the outside while the mixture of crab meat and bechemal sauce remained smooth). Dessert consisted of white chocolate bread pudding with white chocolate Kahlua sauce.

I have to say that this was one of the most delicious lunches I have ever enjoyed and, while last year’s outdoor setting at Jefferson Island was good the quality of the food here was better. Patrick excelled himself.

By the time we were finished three hours had passed and we were ready for a siesta. Less then an hour later we were at the Days Inn in Eunice where most enjoyed a brief nap. I walked up the highway to the Family Dollar store where I purchased a pair of athletic shoes for $9.99 plus tax.

At 5.30pm we headed for the Winn Dixie store where we purchased our drinking requirements for the evening and then made the short trip to Geno Delafose’s ranch where we had a BBQ and enjoyed the music from Geno and his band. Some of us danced!

Categories: Brian's Blog · New Orleans Tour 2008

Jazz Fest Day Three – Sunday April 27

April 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

How apt that as we watched the Voice Of The Wetlands band – featuring Tab Benoit, Cyril Neville and Anders Osborne, on the main Acura Stage – the heavens should open up. Graham and I sat on our camp chairs huddled under our ponchos, me with my umbrella, as a lake formed at our feet.

As Cyril sang, ‘Please don’t wash us away,’ there was every chance that we would be. This was no sun shower but a deluge that lasted an hour and left the Fairgrounds area dotted with large and small ponds and thick, slushy mud.

‘What’s our plan?’ I asked Graham, who replied ‘We’ll sit it out until it eases.’ ‘What’s Plan B?’ I asked. ‘There is none.’ It was a brilliantly simple but deceptively clever strategy. By sitting there we saw out the storm, and allowed as little water as possible to permeate our shelters. Apart from my shoes which gradually became saturated. (Of course, we should have gone to the Blues Tent in the first place).

‘Once you’re wet you’re wet,’ said Graham, in his usual philosophical way. Here I am telling people what to do at Jazz Fest but don’t take my own advice of having an old pair of shoes to wear on wet days!

We caught some of Irma Thomas next up on the Acura, singing ‘It’s Raining’ as her second song. Then we headed to the Fais Do Do stage just in time to witness Del McCoury doing a great version of Richard Thompson’s ‘1952 Vincent Black Lightning.’ Next we went to the Blues Tent to see some of Roy Young, who we had seen practising in Willie Mitchell’s studio just a few days ago.

Then it was back to Congo Square to ensure a good spot for Al Green, who was sensational. Of all the acts who came up in the late 60s and early 70s Green is perhaps the one who has still got ‘it’ – whatever it is. At one point he mentioned that there were some people who were wondering if the Reverend still had it. Believe me, he has. Al mentioned that last year he did 147 shows. Surely, he can make it to Australia. (More later).

Tonight we went to see Etta James at the House Of Blues. At over 50kg lighter than a few years back James is still a compelling performer. Introduced as The Queen of The Blues she proved that it is not an idle boast. leo Nocentelli layed lead guitar for most of the night before departing for a gig at Tipitina’s and Dr John made a fine guest appearance at the end of the dhow for ‘Further On Down The Road.’

This morning we head of to Cajun Country for two nights.

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Jazz Fest Day Two – Saturday April 26

April 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

I have just realised how difficult it is to keep up this blog given everything we are doing. So I will give some brief outlines and then fill in the details as I get time (which may not be for a week or more!).

The sky opened up in the afternoon and a lot of people returned to the hotel bedraggled after seeing Dr John. Weare about to go to the Rock ‘n’ Bowl and I’ll get some more reports for later.

I didn’t make it out there! Shame. The first time I have ever missed a day deliberately. I was interviewing Doyle Bramhall and CC Adcock over on Elysian Fields and got distracted by lunch from the Verti Mart on Royal of All That Jazz Po’ Boys. Then I got wet going back to the hotel and decided that I would not risk going out to the festival. I only have one pair of shoes and best go and purchase a spare pair tomorrow.

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Jazz Fest Day One – Friday April 25

April 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

The rain held off long enough for us to all enjoy the first day. Graham and I placed out chairs at the main stage and then caught Barbara Lynne, a great singer and left handed guitarist in the blues tent. Then it was a bit more of Doyle and CC at the same tent.

The main gig of the day was Robert Plant and Alison Krauss and I have to say they were increbly impressive with T Bone Burnett and Buddy Miller in the band. They also did three Led Zep songs.

Some of us went for dinner at The Country Flame in Iberville. I had the rib eye. Cheap and delicious, despite the rat running across the top of a wall towards the kitchen. It was a small rat.

Then we caught Sonny Landreth at the House of Blues and Graham and I wandered down to dba on Frenchman to meet Tony and see Doyle and CC – again! Another great gig – and venue serves Coopers Pale and Sparkling ale – and you can buy them cheaper here ($5 a bottle) than you can at any Melbourne venue! Work that one out.

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Clarksdale To New Orleans

April 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Thursday was our longest day, driving from Clarksdale all the way to New Orleans via Greenwood (to see Robert Johnson’s ‘real’ grave.

We arrived at the Bourbon Orleans at 7.00pm after getting stuck on the freeway, got changed quickly and went to Napoleon House for the welcoming dinner.

After that it was off to Chickie Wah Wah on Canal to see Doyle Bramhall along with CC Adcock and the Lafayette Marquise. A fantastic gig. Dr John was there for a while and Sarah got his autograph. Peter Stroud, Sheryl Crow’s guitarist was also there and did a guest spot. I spoke to him afterwards and he is lovely guy.

The next day on my Triple R report to Jeff and Billy I was to call this ‘the world’s best rock ‘n’ roll band’ who ‘make the Rolling Stones look like a bunch of bumbling old men.’

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Clarksdale, Mississippi

April 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

On Wednesday morning we had breakfast and then headed off to Helena, Arkansas to visit the Delta Cultural Center and witness Sonny Payne presenting the incredibly long-running King Biscuit Time radio show. Sarah and I were guests on the half hour show which has been on air since 1941! Sonny has been hosting the show since 1951!

We then headed back into Clarksdale where we visited the Delta Blues Museum, Cathead Records and hada  walk around town. Then in the evening we had dinner at Madidi – the restaurant owned by Morgan Freeman. I have to say that it lives up to its reputation and, with the A dollar riding high, was quite reasonable. The stuffed pork chop I had was definitey the best pork chop I have ever ejoyed.

Later it was off to Red’s Lounge where Tony was waiting for us to enjoy Delta blues man Robert Belfour (and a drummer whose name I didn’t catch). When I was leaving to take some people back to the Shack Up Inn I asked Red if I would be able to get back in and he said, “I’ll tr not to get too drunk and forget who you are.”

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Memphis To Clarksdale

April 23, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Monday was a busy day with visits to the National Civil Rights Museum, Stax Museum and a stop at Willie Mitchell’s Royal Studio, where his son Boo showed us around while singer Rob Young was pracitising for Jazz Fest with his band. Thanks Boo! Dinner was at the King’s Palace Cafe on Beale.

Tuesday we headed to Clarksdale where we checked in at the fabulous Shack Up Inn. I picked Tony up from the Riverside Inn, where he had been staying, and we did the beer run. In the evning we all went to Abe’s Ribs for dinner then returned to the Shack Up for a gig with Cedric Burnside and Lightnin’ Malcolm.

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Graceland Revisited

April 21, 2008 · 1 Comment

This morning we visited Graceland, once home to Elvis Presley and now a Mecca for his fans, who flock in their hundreds of thousands each year to visit the relatively modest (by rock standards) mansion. The guide who introduced us to the tour scoffed at reports that San Simeon, William Randolph Hearst’s castle in Calfornia, has more visitors. “Not so,” he said “Graceland is the most visited house in America.”

Of course, Elvis has not lived here for almost thirty years so it was somewhat of a shock – and a wonderful one at that – to see him on one of his rare visits to his former domicile. He now lives with Priscilla out of town on a 100-acre spread nearer to Tupelo, Mississippi, his birthplace.

Always known for his sense of humour, Elvis – or Mr Presley, as we called him – rocked up on a pink ride-on mower with a couple of his ageing buddies. “Just here to check on how everything is going,” he said as he parked the vehicle and gingerly alighted. At 73, he is not quite as spriteley as he once was but he still looks in terrific shape the three years since his final live show and eight years since his farewell world tour (which made him the highest grossing live act in history). The years have treated him well.

You can imagine the frenzy that was created amongst the group of tourists lucky enough to see him but he signed autographs, answered questions and even had his picture taken with our tour group. (Unfortunately, mine did not come out). It was an incredible and unexpected bonus. I have to say that I was completely dumbstruck in the presence of the man they call The King. But given his last three decades they should surely call him The Emperor or The God!

It is amazing to think that just over thirty years ago, on August 16, 1977, Colonel Tom Parker was killed in a tragic shooting accident at Graceland’s shooting range while Elvis and his friends looked on in horror. They were so shocked that it took them more than half an hour to call paramedics by which stage the Colonel was a whiter shade of pale. A local doctor quickly issued a death certificate, the police said there were ‘absolutely no suspicious circumstances’ and said they would arrest anyone who claimed otherwise and the local mayor, said, ‘Oh well, these things happen.’ Parker was buried next to the stables the following morning, a small plain brick marking his grave. “The Colonel would have wanted it that way,” said Elvis, who unfortunately could not make the funeral service, which was attended by some colourful Italian identities with whom the Colonel would often play cards. It is reported that they each received a small brown envelope and were never seen in Memphis again.

That single, horrible tragedy was to be the turning point of Elvis Presley’s career. Blown out to 330lbs, depressed about his career and the breakdown of his marriage, Elvis was said to have been in the toilet when the gun went off and a stray bullet hit ricocheted off a wall and hit Parker right between the eyes. On receiving the news, Elvis immediately had a road to Damascus revelation.

A few months later, a trim, happy Elvis Presley was reunited with Priscilla, moved to his new ranch in Mississippi and re-ignited a recording and touring career that had been on the verge of collapse.

In 1978, the Elvis Gidday From Australia special beamed from the Sydney Opera House into over a billion homes around the world. It was to be the first date on a remarkable comeback tour that enabled him to perform in countries outside America for the first time. The 100-date five-continent tour set a new benchmark in box office receipts. The resultant double-live album stayed at Number 1 on the charts for a massive twenty-three weeks.

Now under the management of Jon Landau, who was also in charge of Bruce Springsteen’s career, Elvis somehow managed to ride out the punk revolution completely unscathed, having both The Sex Pistols and The Clash open arena shows for him on his 1980 US tour.

During the ’80s Elvis recorded a series of acclaimed studio albums that re-established his reputation as one of the world’s greatest singers. Elvis Meets Aretha, featuring duets by both legends, topped the charts for four months and went on to sell 10 million copies. His 1985 album, Elvis At 50 (produced by Don Was), sold over 5 million units.

While Elvis had won only three Grammys up until 1977 – all for gospel albums – his legend grew over the next 30 years, picking up another 36 awards for rock, country (contemporary and traditional), gospel, blues and spoken word albums, overtaking George Solti as history’s greatest Grammy winner. Only polka player  Jimmy Sturr was to approach this number n the modern era. It was to become his most productive period ever.

Presley also successfully went back to acting in movies and finally won that elusive Oscar in 1984 for his role in Tender Mercies (just pipping Robert Duvall, who was in the same film). He won again in 1987 for Wall Street (as an unscrupulous share trader) and his third Oscar came in 2004, playing the grandfather in Mystic River.

By 1990, Elvis was ready to change direction and enlisted the help of Daniel Lanois to record the landmark album Elvis In New Orleans. The album featured his usual crew of musicians, including James Burton and Jerry Scheff, but added the Meters and an array of New Orleans legends such as Dr John and Allen Toussaint. It was not to be Presley’s highest selling album (netting only 3 million sales) but it was to be his most highly-praised album since the late 60s. Rolling Stone called it ‘the greatest masterpiece of the past 20 years.’

In 1995, Elvis released the follow-up album Elvis In New Orleans II, featuring guest CC Adcock who Elvis saw as his protege. He set off on a world tour to celebrate his 60th birthday. (Coincidentally, Elvis Costello released Elvis In New Orleans Too a year later). This was to outgross his previous tour by almost 25% but at the end Elvis announced that he would do one more tour when he was 65 and then retire permanently from touring. “I feel like there are plenty of young fellas and gals out there who can take my place,” he said, in announcing his decision.

In 1999 Elvis worked with T Bone Burnett on the soundtrack of O Brother! Where Art Thou (which won him a Grammy) and made a cameo appearance int he film. He liked Burnett so much that he then recorded another studio album with Burnett, who teamed Elvis with Alison Krauss for the brilliant and award-winning Raising Dust.

Elvis Farewell, his final tour in 2000, was a blockbuster to beat all comers. The year long journey was to make him the single biggest grossing concert act in history. It was so popular that acts such as The Rolling Stones, U2 and Bruce Spsingsteen decided to take a year off so as not to compete. Always genereous, however, Elvis enlisted them to play various supports during the tour. The double album, film and DVD were also to set records.

In 2001, keeping his promise, Elvis retired to Mississippi with Priscilla. Lisa Marie married CC Adcock soon afterwards in a simple ceremony.

Elvis then recorded two fabulous albums with Joe Henry, who encouraged some of rock’s great writers, including Dan Penn and Tom Waits, to pen a batch of new songs for The King.

Elvis has made only three concert appearances since 2000. He headlined the Hurricane Katrina Benefit in late 2005 at Madison Square Gardens in New York. The Elvis Presley Foundation has since raised over $200 milion dollars to help New Orleans residents. In 2007 he sang with Willie Nelson in front of a million people at an anti-Iraq war protest in Washington DC. It is said that Elvis’s influence was what led to the impeachment and subsequent imprisonment of George W Bush for ‘war crimes’ later that year.

In 2008 Elvis sang at a Barack Obama benefit concert and helped raise enough money to get Obama into the White House. Everyone recalls where they were when Obama made his famous ‘I have been to Graceand’ speech.

President Obama invited Elvis to sing at his inauguration in January 2009 and Elvis can be seen on the dais near the Obama family at the swearing in. Elvis has rejected reports that he was asked by Obama to run as Vice President, saying ‘I’m just a truck driver from Tupelo, Mississippi.’

It gladdened all of our hearts today seeing Elvis – the icon, the legend, the national treasure – living so happily in his 70s. Long live The King!

Categories: Brian's Blog · New Orleans Tour 2008

Clarksdale, MS

April 19, 2008 · Leave a Comment

On Friday we looked around Oxford in the morning, bought some books at the excellent Square Books and then drove over to Clarksdale to drop Tony off. He will be staying there five nights in all – three nights at the Riverside Inn, the site of the hospital where Bessie Smith died. Graham and I were unable to find a room there so have decided to stay in Oxford before going to Memphis to meet the group.

The Juke Joint Festival is on in Clarksdale this weekend and we went to a venue called Sarah’s Kitchen to see T Model Ford launch his new CD, It’s Jack Daniel’s Time. Unfortunately, he was the only one with Jack Daniels. Everyone else had to drink Bud Light or Heineken or soft drink. They missed a golden marketing opportunity there! Interestingly, almost everyone in the venue was white and middle-aged. Apart from T Model and his band members there were only five other African-Americans there – and three of those were working behind the bar! I wonder what that says about the state of the blues.

The drive back across the Delta at night was to the sounds of the Hill Country Revue CD and the Stones’ Shine A Light with ‘Sympathy For The Devil’ played loud. not that we wanted to meet the devil at the crossroads – or anywhere else.

Today we drive to Memphis to meet the rest of the tour group who are arriving from Australia.

Categories: Brian's Blog · New Orleans Tour 2008

The Mississippi Blues Again

April 18, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Just got in from seeing the Hill Country Revue at Proud Larry’s in Oxford, Mississippi and I can tell you that the blues is alive – performance wise at least – in this part of the USA. Formed by Cody Dickinson and Chris Chew of the North Mississippi Allstars, tonight’s line-up also featured Luther Dickinson and Duwayne Burnside and a guest spot from Kenny Brown (who played with RL Burnside). Two hours and ten minutes of non-stop rockin’ blues was certainly worth the US$10 we paid to share the experience with about 50 others! I have seen the future of blues and it is …the Hill Country Revue.

We arrived in Oxford (my favourite small town anywhere) today after a 7 hour drive from Baton Rouge that took in the very scenic Natchez Trace Parkway. The trip was made even more worthwhile by Matty’s Mom’s Meatloaf (US$8.75) at the Ajax Diner here. Maccaroni and cheese is considered a vegetable side dish! You can’t beat that!

Tomorrow we go over to Clarksdale to make sure everything is ready for your visit next week. I look forward to seeing most of you in Memphis on Saturday evening. Happy trails!

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